A bit about Essaouira

Occupied since prehistoric times, Essaouira has always been a place of strategic importance. Mohammed III, who built the city as we see it in the 18th century, employed European engineers to create the fortifications that dominate the coastline. Essaouira was a principal centre for his expansion of trade with Europe, and an enormous amount of resources went into the considerable structures that defend it. Today the city's medina is an Unesco World Heritage site.

The fishing port is very active, with catches daily, and the hand built wooden boats standing up in dry dock are an amazing sight. If you approach the foreman of the boatyard he will probably give you a tour for a few dirhams. There are few boatyards in the world today creating such impressive vessels by hand from wood, so getting a good look is a must.

The medina's lanes, alleyways, white walls and fortifications are home today to traditional artisans and craftsmen working wood and making pottery by hand. Everything is for sale of course, so be ready to haggle. The best bargains are to be found by buying in the workshops tucked away from the main streets rather than from the resellers, though.

Essaouira's bay is reknown for its windsurfing, and attracts enthusiasts from around the world. Kiteboarding is also becoming increasingly popular but, with the risk of flying out of control, is not for the faint hearted.

The city is famed to be the place of Jimi Hendrix's only ever holiday, and the ruined fortress up the beach to be the inspiration for the track "castles made of sand", except that the record was released in 1967, two years before Hendrix came to Morocco. Never mind. He did come here, though, and the castle up the road is well worth a look anyway. The hippy element in Essaouira remains, and there is no shortage of Bob Marley posters.

The director Orson Welles stayed in the city between 1948 and 1950 whilst attemping to film Othello. Funding fell through, and with no money for props or costumes the director filmed the attempted murder of Cassio in the local bath house, Hammam Babst. Welles is commemorated with a small park, Place Orson Welles, and the hammam is still open for business.